The sweet spot

Sweet wines are often typecast as the final act in a dining experience, reserved almost exclusively for dessert — or, at best, a somewhat sweet starter.

Yet, some of the world’s most renowned restaurants are challenging this convention, revealing the complex versatility of sweet wines when paired with savoury dishes.

Two icons in the category — Château d’Yquem of France and Klein Constantia’s Vin de Constance — are leading the charge, proving that sweet wines can be just as dynamic and food-friendly as their dry counterparts.

Château d’Yquem: The crown jewel of Sauternes

Hailing from the Sauternes region of Bordeaux, Château d’Yquem is synonymous with the category. Since its first vintages in the late 16th century, the estate has produced what is widely considered to be the world’s greatest sweet wine. The blend is predominantly Sémillon-driven, with a touch of Sauvignon Blanc, though Yquem’s real beauty lies in its relationship with Botrytis cinerea — or noble rot, as it is more commonly known. This unique fungus dries up the grapes while still on the vine, concentrating sugars and heightening aromatic and flavour potential, contributing to the wine’s signature sweetness and complexity.

A glass of Yquem, when young, offers a plethora of aromatics — apricot, peaches, honey, and floral undertones — with a vibrant acidity balancing its rich, opulent sweetness. As it ages, it develops deeper honeyed notes, along with those of dried fruit, saffron, marmalade, and spice. The sweetness integrates, though it still retains its exceptional acidity. It’s this very harmony that makes it a stellar companion to savoury courses.

On a recent visit to chef Mauro Colagreco’s three-star Michelin restaurant, Mirazur, in Menton, France — voted the World’s Best Restaurant in 2019 — a 1989 vintage of Château d’Yquem found an unexpected sparring partner in a dish of guineafowl with textures of turmeric and orange. The wine’s honeyed, dried apricot, saffron, and tea notes complemented the almost tagine-like flavour combinations of the dish, while its acidity cut through richer elements, proving to be a pretty perfect pairing for the poultry course and a highlight of the day’s wines in its own right.

Vin de Constance: An icon of the Cape

Over the ocean and across continents, Vin de Constance has earned its place in the annals of legendary sweet wines — a nectar with a long and storied past. It is said to have enchanted a host of historical figures, including George Washington, Marie Antoinette, and Napoleon Bonaparte.

The maiden vintage of Vin de Constance, as it is known today, was first made in 1986 and released in 1990 by the Klein Constantia estate. Currently, it is made by winemaker Matthew Day, and its legacy continues to grow. Made exclusively from the Muscat de Frontignan grape, the 2021 vintage of Vin de Constance presents aromas of apricot, sandalwood spice, and Seville marmalade, which follow through to the palate, where they are accompanied by citrus, spice, and florals. The rich and luscious texture is balanced by a crisp acidity and salinity.

While its fame lies in being a dessert wine, chefs and sommeliers see its potential far beyond the dessert course. At the Relais & Châteaux FYN in Cape Town — a bastion of the city’s fine-dining scene — service and beverage director Jennifer Hugé’s wine list features multiple bottles of Vin de Constance. While on the pairing menu it is often matched with sweeter courses, Hugé agrees that the wine is equally suited to savoury dishes, having paired both Vin de Constance and Yquem with dishes sweet and savoury.

It is a concept embraced by the most forward-thinking of chefs, who understand that sweet wines, with their complex layers and racy acidity, often make for stellar savoury pairings. At Madrid’s DiverXO — number four on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2023 — the audacious three-Michelin-starred playground of chef Dabiz Muñoz, a 1986 vintage of Château d’Yquem finds its match in a radical Spanish-meets-Mexican dish of stingray wing, whey emulsion, and Melipona honey, and a chile morita mole. This is an unbelievable pairing that plays with contrast and harmony every step of the way.

This unconventional pairing philosophy challenges both restaurants and diners to reconsider what sweet wines can do. Their vibrant acidity, intricate flavour profiles, and complexity make them ideal partners for dishes that feature savoury elements, where they can be used to balance out heat and spice, enhance umami, and cut through richness.

Château d’Yquem and Vin de Constance are multi-faceted expressions of their terroirs, capable of pairing an entire dining experience, from amuse-bouche to the main course, and yes, dessert. As restaurants such as Mirazur, FYN, and DiverXO continue to spotlight these sweet icons in new contexts, diners are sure to follow suit, one pairing at a time.

Current vintages

Château d’Yquem 2021 – R9 900

Vin de Constance 2021 – R1 500

Glenmorangie The Nectar 16 Year Old

A whisky made with sweet-wine barrels…

It is said that Glenmorangie’s head of distilling and whisky creation, Dr Bill Lumsden, was inspired by the aromas in a French patisserie when he conceived the distillery’s first foray into ageing in sweet-wine casks, Nectar d’Or. He would later elevate this concept with the creation of Glenmorangie The Nectar — a 16-year-old statement whisky. A heady, rich dram, The Nectar is aged in bourbon barrels for 14 years before being finished in an array of sweet-wine barrels for a further two years.

Each of the sweet-wine barrels offers something unique to the spirit. The French Sauternes and Monbazillac casks deliver those sought-after buttery pastry, brioche, meringue, and baked-apple notes, while the Spanish Moscatel casks impart dessert-like notes that are sweet and syrupy. The Hungarian Tokaji casks add confectionery notes such as white chocolate, almond, and honeycomb. A pour well suited to an after-dinner drink or even dessert. From R1 199.