The current release of the Boekenhoutskloof sémillon (2022) certainly deserves your attention. The fruit is sourced from a few truly ancient Franschhoek vineyards (now about 90 years old). The wine has been made in much the same way since it was first launched a quarter of a century ago. While I don’t always agree with Tim Atkin, his 98-point rating and the Platter five-star accolade both suggest that it’s seriously worth seeking out.
The Neil Ellis Whitehall (Elgin) chardonnay — also from the 2022 vintage — should also have a place on your shopping list. The fruit is superfine and the vinification completely Burgundian — better perhaps, since it’s entirely free of the pongy notes some Old World producers think is the way to achieve “charming complexity”. The wine has real presence, intensity and finesse. If you allow it a little time in your glass (rather than quaffing it too quickly) you will find it acquires additional layering and nuance.
The Reyneke Reserve White — a wood-matured sauvignon blanc — also warrants your most serious attention. The Reyneke wines are organically and biodynamically farmed, and have been so for at least a decade. As a result they have a luminosity and brightness quite unlike most conventionally farmed wines. The Reserve White is, in my view, the finest example of the style and the best wine produced in that Polkadraai cellar.
Even though summer is the time we tend to drink more white wine, there’s no reason not to reach for the occasional bottle of fine red. The Rustenberg Peter Barlow 2021 is surprisingly accessible, with quite juicy blackcurrant notes confirming its stylistic transition to a more New World expression. The vineyard itself is probably the oldest cabernet block in the Cape: future releases should come to market with Old Vine certification. Incidentally, the Rustenberg Five Soldiers chardonnay, while much changed from the original releases, is still a delicious wine and worth its premium price point.
Finally — assuming you can lay your hands on any — the 2022 Porseleinberg syrah ought to be on your wish list, both for drinking now and for laying down for whenever you need a really special occasion red. Porseleinberg has emerged as one of the country’s finest syrah sites. It began life as a dream conceived of by Boekenhoutskloof’s Marc Kent. It was transformed into a reality with lots of money and plenty of patience — and also through the hard work and dedication of Callie Louw, who has been there pretty much since the beginning.
I’ve watched how the wines have evolved from the very first vintage. The earlier releases were very good, the more recent ones have benefited from older vineyards. Certainly the 2022 is the best and most approachable to date. Porseleinberg has been a solid Platter five-star laureate most years. Tim Atkin rated the 2022 99 points. Even if you think that Atkin inflates his scores the way the department of basic education calibrates the matric results, consider this wine the country’s 10-distinction graduate.
This column originally appeared in Business Day.
MICHAEL FRIDJHON: Choose quality over being dry this January
As holidays come to an end some drinkers may want to navigate towards relative abstemiousness
As the end of the summer holidays approaches, even the most dedicated wine drinker is likely to consider putting on the brakes for a bit. Those who have done nothing more arduous than make gins and tonics before lunch, followed by flattening many of their best bottles through languid afternoons might be considering going “dry” in January.
This, incidentally, is not necessarily a good idea: an American hepatologist has argued that the enzymes used by the liver to process alcohol need to be kept “in training”. Moderate ongoing consumption may therefore be wiser than going “cold turkey”.
That’s a choice — and if you feel that a puritanical response to a few weeks of overindulgence is the best way to cope (with guilt and the enlarged midriff) you have only yourself to persuade. However, instead of the duck-or-no-dinner approach, you may choose instead to drink less, but better. If so, then as you navigate your way from profligacy to relative abstemiousness, here are a few suggestions to entertain your palate.
MICHAEL FRIDJHON: There is a long list of chardonnays worth drinking
The current release of the Boekenhoutskloof sémillon (2022) certainly deserves your attention. The fruit is sourced from a few truly ancient Franschhoek vineyards (now about 90 years old). The wine has been made in much the same way since it was first launched a quarter of a century ago. While I don’t always agree with Tim Atkin, his 98-point rating and the Platter five-star accolade both suggest that it’s seriously worth seeking out.
The Neil Ellis Whitehall (Elgin) chardonnay — also from the 2022 vintage — should also have a place on your shopping list. The fruit is superfine and the vinification completely Burgundian — better perhaps, since it’s entirely free of the pongy notes some Old World producers think is the way to achieve “charming complexity”. The wine has real presence, intensity and finesse. If you allow it a little time in your glass (rather than quaffing it too quickly) you will find it acquires additional layering and nuance.
The Reyneke Reserve White — a wood-matured sauvignon blanc — also warrants your most serious attention. The Reyneke wines are organically and biodynamically farmed, and have been so for at least a decade. As a result they have a luminosity and brightness quite unlike most conventionally farmed wines. The Reserve White is, in my view, the finest example of the style and the best wine produced in that Polkadraai cellar.
Even though summer is the time we tend to drink more white wine, there’s no reason not to reach for the occasional bottle of fine red. The Rustenberg Peter Barlow 2021 is surprisingly accessible, with quite juicy blackcurrant notes confirming its stylistic transition to a more New World expression. The vineyard itself is probably the oldest cabernet block in the Cape: future releases should come to market with Old Vine certification. Incidentally, the Rustenberg Five Soldiers chardonnay, while much changed from the original releases, is still a delicious wine and worth its premium price point.
Finally — assuming you can lay your hands on any — the 2022 Porseleinberg syrah ought to be on your wish list, both for drinking now and for laying down for whenever you need a really special occasion red. Porseleinberg has emerged as one of the country’s finest syrah sites. It began life as a dream conceived of by Boekenhoutskloof’s Marc Kent. It was transformed into a reality with lots of money and plenty of patience — and also through the hard work and dedication of Callie Louw, who has been there pretty much since the beginning.
I’ve watched how the wines have evolved from the very first vintage. The earlier releases were very good, the more recent ones have benefited from older vineyards. Certainly the 2022 is the best and most approachable to date. Porseleinberg has been a solid Platter five-star laureate most years. Tim Atkin rated the 2022 99 points. Even if you think that Atkin inflates his scores the way the department of basic education calibrates the matric results, consider this wine the country’s 10-distinction graduate.
This column originally appeared in Business Day.
You might also like....
MICHAEL FRIDJHON: Stellenboschkloof has much to offer wine lovers
MICHAEL FRIDJHON: Wine drinkers spoilt for choice in quality and price
MICHAEL FRIDJHON: Texture and nuance add to 2015 Grande Dame’s precision