Subcontinental soul

TRÈSIND STUDIO | AN INDIAN HOMECOMING

Amid the veneered glamour of Dubai, Trèsind Studio stands alone. That’s not to say it isn’t luxurious or grand in design — for it certainly is. Every detail of the double-volume space is a marvel, with the meticulously designed interior featuring double-height ceilings adorned with intricate rows of baffles and thoughtfully, strategically placed lighting, which spotlights each table, setting the stage for the gastronomic spectacle that follows. Each table is positioned to offer diners a front-row view of the expansive open kitchen, where the chefs — seemingly ever calm and at ease — bring to life this grand ode to India.

Yet within the walls of this magnificent space, it’s not about copious helpings of caviar, gorgeously marbled wagyu, or layer upon layer of fresh truffle. Don’t get me wrong, I am as much a fan of the above as the next gluttonous gourmand, and there are many restaurants in Dubai I have thoroughly enjoyed for this very reason. But what sets Studio apart is that it achieves an impressive, immersive and extravagant experience without these trappings.

At the helm of this spectacular kitchen is Chef Himanshu Saini, recognised as one of the revolutionaries and tastemakers of modern Indian cuisine across the globe. At Trèsind Studio, he takes diners on a gastronomic journey through India’s diverse regional cuisines — an epicurean adventure traversing the country from the Thar Desert, down to the Deccan Plateau and coastal plains, before heading up to the northern plains and Himalayan mountains — and even to the night sky that oversees them all, for the grand finale.

His present 14-course tasting menu is perhaps his best yet. His seemingly intuitive knack for artfully layering flavours, textures, temperatures, and, in particular, spices is now tempered with a sense of restraint and maturity, without losing his playful and creative touch.

His dishes are elegant in presentation yet complex in flavour and texture — there’s a sense of utmost thought imbued in every bite. Spices are harnessed masterfully by the chef, employed with utmost precision. They are the leading flavour of each course, creating deep, rich, and immensely flavourful mouthfuls that pay homage to India’s rich culinary heritage, presented with a modern sensibility.

While the presentation is still undeniably theatrical, it serves to enhance the narrative of each dish rather than compensate for something missing, as these smoke-and-mirrors tactics usually do. This approach ensures that the focus remains on the ingredients and the stories they tell, creating a compelling tribute to India’s terroir, its abundant offerings, and its vast culinary landscape.

The menu features the likes of “white asparagus rice no rice”, which showcases finely cut asparagus, rice-like in appearance and texture but bold in flavour, served with sugar beans and fried onions in a dish at once reminiscent of risotto and yet nothing like it. The accompanying broth, made from the trimmings of the asparagus, is rich, deep and decadent — perfect for sipping between spoonsful of the warm, textured dish. It is a phenomenal use of a few simple ingredients, transformed into something extraordinary.

Then there’s the crab, roasted in a blend of spices and clarified butter before being baked in a cinnamon stick — the flavours of the warm spice further infusing the delicate meat with its subtle sweet and woody notes. It arrives at the table and is to be scooped out of the cinnamon stick, reminding me of scooping morsels of meat from a crab shell, though here somewhat more elegantly. It is a sensational little dish — the rich ghee, the sweet crab meat, and the expertly mixed spices, which, though delivering only a few bites, linger on both the palate and in the mind long after the dish has been cleared.

I could wax poetic about each of the 14 courses, each one so cleverly woven into this story of India and this culinary exploration of its vastly diverse regions, the ingredients they provide and the traditions that shaped each of their unique styles of cooking. Chef Himanshu and his team are so clearly proud yet also honoured to share this rich Indian story.

Complementing the culinary experience is an impressive cocktail pairing programme. The Papadom Botanic Bar, housed within the restaurant, offers a menu created by acclaimed mixologist Dom Carella, who is also behind the menu’s pairings. This selection of innovative beverages — from teas to kombuchas and cocktails — harmonises perfectly with the tasting menu. These drinks us locally sourced ingredients and sustainable practices, aligning with the restaurant’s ethos of transforming and amplifying humble components.

Service at Trèsind Studio, led by Vipin Panwar, is seamless and attentive, embodying the Indian philosophy of “Atithi Devo Bhava”, meaning “Guest is God”, a philosophy clearly and wholeheartedly embraced by the entire team.

At Trèsind Studio, notwithstanding its incredible setting, impeccable décor, gorgeous crockery, and subtle nods to Dubai’s luxurious nature, it’s ultimately about heart, soul and flavour. And really, what more could one want?

From the 2024 / 25 edition of Wanted Watches, Jewellery and Luxury.