Glenmorangie has two new expressions

The art of making whisky develops as a tension between the steady turn of tradition and the seductive velocity of innovation. This was revealed to me over a series of chats, cocktails and cigars shared with Bill Lumsden. He is one of the world’s most awarded master distillers. Importantly, Lumsden or Dr Bill, as everyone calls him, is Glenmorangie’s Director of Distilling and Whisky Creation.

He was recently in our neck of the woods to talk about Glenmorangie’s two new expressions, the Triple Cask Reserve and their new Original 12-year-old single malt — both with a new look bottle, label and carton. 

We huddled together in the nippy shade of the Swartberg Mountains; a few suits and some scribes with the Scotsman holding court. The hangout for the rendezvous was chosen in part because it’s the closest one can get to the Scottish highlands’ nippy vibe as one can get in SA. But, to be sure, it’s because the Swartberg Game Reserve offers a lovely opportunity to mingle with giraffes. Here, the connection is made because Glenmorangie distillery in Scotland is home to the tallest pot stills in the whisky making world, arguably. Their stills have necks the same height as an adult male giraffe. Now, go figure.

The new Original 12 Year Old is a product of Dr Bill’s successful tinkering with Glenmorangie’s The Original 10 Year Old signature single malt, introduced in the 1960s with roots going back more than 175 years.

The 12 Year Old is made by leaving the spirit to mature for two more years than has traditionally been the practice. The result is that the much loved mellow tones and delicate flavours of the 10 Year Old have acquired a more complex, refined and deeper flavour profile with a longer finish. “It’s a slight break with tradition,” but it’s not too far out to warrant alarm for “hard-core whisky lovers.” Importantly, it also remains approachable for drinkers with untested palettes.

Triple Cask Reserve, on the other hand, brings together yields from ex-bourbon casks, newly charred virgin oak and ex rye variants. At tasting, it’s revealed as very fruity; think of candied orange peels. Then there’s some ginger, cinnamon and cloves. These account for the little spicy notes that creep in from the back with a little touch of vanilla.

Evidently, the new expressions will do well to inject some excitement around the brand while risking very little of its time earned goodwill. “I may be a little avant garde in terms of some of the experiments I get up to,” says Dr Bill. However, he also insists that he is a champion of all that is good in the whisky making tradition. “Whisky making is a very artisanal craft,” he says. Insinuating that this is what makes it special.

Hard core whisky drinkers can be a hard crowd to please, Dr Bill points out as we discuss the idea of the use of whisky for cocktails. “It can go very badly. I very rarely enjoy it,” he says. However, our host mixologist has managed to find success with a sundowner cocktail based on the new 12 Year Old.

“It’s surprisingly good ... I really like what they did,” says the world’s most awarded distiller as he asks for a third tumbler. He is surprisingly cheerful with a knack for late night bar, or locker room humour. I had expected a grey beard with a stiff upper lip and an intolerance for newcomers to the craft. It turns out, like his new expression, he’s a balance of welcomed typecasting with refreshing originality.