It’s been (another) year of ups and downs for South Africa’s culinary scene. We’ve seen the last vestiges of the pandemic deal the final blow to some restaurants, while a host of new ones have popped up in their place.
We’ve also had the season of the “revenge spend”, with ingredients such as truffle, langoustine, wagyu, and caviar adorning many a menu. On the flipside, duties imposed by the International Trade Administration Commission have seen frozen French fries become a hot commodity, while a local outbreak of foot-and-mouth disease, coupled with the increased cost of petrol, has led to rising meat prices. At the same time, the vegan trend has shown no sign of slowing down, despite the Department of Agriculture, Land Reform and Rural Development’s swing at vegetable substitutes with names “prescribed for processed meat products”.
And those with a pescatarian-leaning palate must be thrilled at the abundance of fish that has appeared on pretty much every fine-dining menu. When it comes to cities, Cape Town restaurants are set to see a much-needed recovery, while Durban has begun growing a rather lovely food scene. Though Joburg seemed on the up with a slew of exciting openings early in the year, the city’s focus on “going out” rather than “eating out” has seen punters opting for glitz over gourmet.
The standout restaurants of 2022
Introducing the 2022 Great Restaurant Report
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It’s been (another) year of ups and downs for South Africa’s culinary scene. We’ve seen the last vestiges of the pandemic deal the final blow to some restaurants, while a host of new ones have popped up in their place.
We’ve also had the season of the “revenge spend”, with ingredients such as truffle, langoustine, wagyu, and caviar adorning many a menu. On the flipside, duties imposed by the International Trade Administration Commission have seen frozen French fries become a hot commodity, while a local outbreak of foot-and-mouth disease, coupled with the increased cost of petrol, has led to rising meat prices. At the same time, the vegan trend has shown no sign of slowing down, despite the Department of Agriculture, Land Reform and Rural Development’s swing at vegetable substitutes with names “prescribed for processed meat products”.
And those with a pescatarian-leaning palate must be thrilled at the abundance of fish that has appeared on pretty much every fine-dining menu. When it comes to cities, Cape Town restaurants are set to see a much-needed recovery, while Durban has begun growing a rather lovely food scene. Though Joburg seemed on the up with a slew of exciting openings early in the year, the city’s focus on “going out” rather than “eating out” has seen punters opting for glitz over gourmet.
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The biggest surprise has been Stellenbosch, which is positively booming with an array of exceptionally fine eateries. In terms of awards, Cape Town’s Fyn nabbed top spot in Africa, making it to No. 37 on The World’s 50 Best Restaurant list. Speaking of which, I thought I’d round up the best of the restaurants I visited this year.
RESTAURANTS OF THE YEAR:
FYN, Cape Town
I have to agree with the World’s 50 Best team on this one. Chefs Peter Tempelhoff and Ashley Moss, together with co-owner Jennifer Hugé, have created a seamless dining experience that sees fine Japanese technique and beautiful South African produce collide to magnificent effect.
From the intricacy of abalone cooked in kelp to the simplicity of robata-grilled pineapple with shichimi and rice ice cream, Fyn delivers an incredibly refined experience. The team have honed their offering over the four years since opening, creating something quite remarkable.
Image: Supplied
Image: Supplied
The LivingRoom at Summerhill Guest Estate, Durban
You’ll find The LivingRoom at Summerhill Guest Estate in the quiet Pinetown neighbourhood of Cowies Hill, Durban — and this is where some of the most exciting cooking is happening in the country right now. Chef Johannes Richter pairs his dedication to endemic ingredients with his Michelinstar training and passion for Japanese techniques to create a multi-course tasting menu that celebrates the bounty of KwaZulu-Natal’s produce — all of which is either grown on the estate’s own grounds, foraged from the surrounding area, or carefully sourced from smallscale farmers and producers.
Expect fermented truffle served alongside foraged porcini and locally reared venison tartare, or coffee blossoms paired with prickly pear for a sublime petit four. It’s clever, considered cooking every step of the way.
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Zioux, Joburg
The Marble group’s luxurious champagne lounge and cocktail bar has been the place to be and be seen since opening its doors late last year. The stunning space merges Joburg’s love of nightlife and glamour with the delectable small plates created by chef Besele Moses Moloi. Drawing on the flavours of Latin America along with some homegrown influences, Moloi serves up the likes of oxtail vetkoek with a tamarind bite, salmon ceviche, and lamb-shoulder tacos.
A top-notch wine list and cocktail menu complete the experience. It’s a restaurant that cleverly understands what the city is looking for — and delivers it aplenty.
Image: Supplied
Image: Supplied
BEST NEW RESTAURANTS:
Pier, Cape Town
Opening just after Christmas last year, the La Colombe group’s ultra-fine V&A Waterfront property serves up a magnificent display of the team’s signature culinary theatrics and flair for globally inspired flavours, here showcasing remarkable restraint through the prodigious skill of executive chef John Norris-Rogers.
Inspired by the pier-front locale, the multi-course tasting menu is an ode to the ocean, be it through the use of ingredients — the poached oyster in an MCC velouté is mouth-watering — or the crockery, custom-made in the shape of seashells. Pier offers a stellar, often-interactive (by way of tableside trolley service) dining experience against the backdrop of the operational pier.
Image: Supplied
Image: Supplied
The Test Kitchen Carbon, Joburg
Dale-Roberts’s venture northwards has seen the opening of The Test Kitchen Carbon. In this evolution of his now-closed Cape Town establishment, the chef straddles the line between his customary fine-dining, multi-sensorial offerings and the energy of Joburg, with the option of either a sample of Cape Town’s best in a tasting menu of dishes from the original The Test Kitchen and his remaining Woodstock restaurants, or a tapas menu that allows guests to enjoy a more casual dining experience. Adding edge to the experience is the inclusion of a music element by resident DJ Sir LSG.
Image: Supplied
Image: Supplied
Clara's Barn, Stellenbosch
Set in one of the oldest barns on one of the oldest working farms in SA, Vergenoegd Löw The Wine Estate, is Clara’s Barn. This farm-meets-fine addition to formidable chef Bertus Basson’s restaurant stable is helmed by chef Drikus Brink. The two worked together to create a menu filled with nostalgic nods (such as a take on fishpaste served on a Lucky Star tin) and comforting flavours (see the rump-served oxtail croquettes).
It’s fine without being fussy, the less-is-more approach to plating allows each ingredient to shine, and the menu plays with the contrast between old and new, traditional and modern. This theme also runs through the renovated space — part preserved heritage, part modern design.
Image: Supplied
Image: Steve Steinfeld
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