On flavour, it ticks all the boxes, there’s freshness from the fish, acidity, spice, saltiness and a touch of sweetness from the host of accoutrements. On texture, it is perhaps less successful; the potato, somewhere between hot and cold, is neither an exciting contrast nor a texturally thrilling vessel to transport the vibrant flavours of the sauce below it. No less, it’s a respectable start, and in any event the next courses more than makes up for it.
The miso glazed cauliflower with poached octopus is a clever little dish encompassing textures of sago, cashew butter, pineapple and yellow pepper, together with an umami-rich grana Padano rind custard and foam. Its delicately plated without being fussy, though a few elements still feel like they’re there for aesthetics more so than what they add to the dish, it’s still a stellar course.