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After five seasons building its reputation in Paris, South African luxury fashion house MaXhosa Africa has been selected by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, the governing body behind Paris Fashion Week (PFW), to present its first official runway show on the opening day of the spring/summer 2027 women’s ready-to-wear season.
The September 28 presentation marks a watershed moment for founder and creative director Laduma Ngxokolo. Celebrating its 16th anniversary this year, the brand moves from fashion presentations to a show on the official runway schedule.
Although South African designers have showcased at PFW in auxiliary shows — and MaXhosa Africa has in the past taken part in stationary presentations on the official schedule — it is the first time a South African designer has been invited to take part in a runway show of the official programme.
“We’ve done five presentations at Paris Fashion Week [there are two events a year], so we were in disbelief that the decision came sooner than expected,” Ngxokolo told the Sunday Times.
“We expected them to at least keep us for four years and maybe give it to us at year number five, but they finally granted it to us for this coming season.”
For Ngxokolo, the runway debut represents more than a coveted place on fashion’s biggest stage.
“For us, this collection is about recognising how far we have come and being confident in where we are going,” he said. “We have spent 16 years building a brand with a clear identity, a strong cultural foundation and the ability to stand on a global stage. This is not about proving that we belong. It is about owning our place and continuing to shape the future of African luxury on our own terms.
“The aim is to roll out 60 looks that are super-strong because we’ve been given 50 minutes to make a statement,” said the Gqeberha-born designer, who has created outfits for stars including Beyoncé and Alicia Keys.
Though the runway is in Paris, Ngxokolo said audiences would be immersed in South Africa.
“What we’re planning to do this time around is to have a beautiful set design that will basically encapsulate a South African aesthetic, and we hope people will feel like they are experiencing the show in South Africa instead of Paris.
“Technically, we’ve been given licence to kill,” he laughed. “We can go as far as our imagination can take us — or our budget can take us.”
With production costs rising and the South African rand under pressure against the euro, balancing ambition with sustainability remains a priority.
“As much as we are excited to do the show, we have to be very cautious with our spending and ensure that we do make it to the next season and the following season and future seasons,” Ngxokolo said.
The collection marks a new chapter for MaXhosa Africa, presenting a more refined and contemporary expression of African luxury. Placing greater emphasis on textiles, craftsmanship and modern African identity, it incorporates music, movement and performance as extensions of its visual language while reflecting the creative energy shaping Africa today.
The aim, Ngxokolo said, was to create a collection that commanded attention, resonated with global luxury consumers and further cemented MaXhosa Africa’s position among the defining fashion houses of its generation.
“We’re trying to tell a story that we think has never been shared in its full capacity,” he said.
Sunday Times Lifestyle
