The show is what people talk about. This is what they actually wear. Diesel’s Pre-Spring 27 collection is Glenn Martens doing what pre-collections are supposed to do but rarely manage: translating the energy of a runway moment into clothes that have somewhere to go.
The Pre-Spring 2027 lineup builds on the concepts from the Fall-Winter 2026 show in February, reshaping them into pieces with a direct emphasis on wearable forms, without dropping the irreverence that makes Diesel worth paying attention to.
The structural tricks remain, just embedded more deeply. A T-shirt that appears draped has a second fitted layer inside holding everything in place. A miniskirt cut improbably short has integral stretch shorts sewn in. A jumpsuit that reads as a tailored shirt tucked into denim is, in fact, one piece. This is Martens’ version of comfort dressing: garments engineered to behave, designed to look like they aren’t.
Denim is still the foundation and is still being pushed. High-waist jeans have been moulded to hold permanent creases, cut extra-long, slit at the back and fastened with hook-and-eyes. Viscose shirts and trousers for men have been treated to read exactly like denim, which raises the question of what denim even is at this point and whether the answer matters. A utility jacket, pants and shirt in ultra-lightweight faded blue lend the collection its more grounded moments, though “grounded” is relative when the jeans are designed to slip through the heel of stilettos.
The material splicing that defined the runway carries through here with the same sleight of hand. A denim shirt jacket transitions to leather at the hem. A trench is leather from the shoulders to just below the waistbelt, then denim to the knee. The effect is less about novelty than about keeping the eye moving, never quite settling on what it’s looking at.
Martens describes the pre-collection as a combination of all the Diesel codes, pointing to utility workwear, tailoring and a more Millennial direction. That mix gives the collection its structure. There is something to that: these are clothes for people who grew up on Diesel in the early 2000s and now want the memory without the nostalgia, the edge without the self-consciousness.
Embroidery appears at the hems of denim shirt jackets, shaped to mirror the silhouette of petals. Flowers form the straps of a short denim dress. Appliqués anchor the drape of a jersey dress where it meets floral-print ruffled chiffon. The references are lighter than they sound, surface detail that adds without distracting.
Technical see-through fabrics show up in sporty zip-ups and pants. Leather jackets in red, yellow and green are garment-dyed to look almost accidental. Polo shirts are extended and warped into piqué dresses with contrast collars pushed back and sporty stripes running down both sides. City-blur prints on dresses and cardigans come with optional stripe layering, the visual equivalent of moving too fast to focus.
The D-One bag that debuted at the last show reappears across sizes and materials, its handles becoming buckle straps down the body. Denim loafers, stilettos with toe-cleavage straps, new colourways in the D-Mile and Pagodha sneakers. Unisex jewellery built from the brand’s iconic D belt buckles, with ball chain charms for personalisation. Eyewear in 3D transparent acetate.
As Martens puts it: “Everybody knows Diesel can party. Now this pre-collection spotlights our day-to-day reality.”
Diesel Pre-Spring 27 is available from select stockists and at diesel.com.
