At South African Fashion Week (SAFW) Spring-Summer 2026, designers signalled a clear shift away from rigid ideas of fit and towards clothing that responds more intuitively to the body.
On the runway, silhouettes loosened, fastenings became functional design tools and construction took on a more adaptive quality, with garments designed to shift, adjust and evolve with the wearer.
After exploring how established labels such as Black Coffee and Helon Melon approached this idea through texture, layering and modular construction, the conversation continued through a younger generation of designers.
In the collections of Robyn Agulhas of Sinchui and Kingsley Baloyi of Undefined Outdoor Clothing, adaptability took on a more utilitarian edge, shaped through streetwear, workwear and outdoor-inspired design.
Sinchui
For Cape Town-based designer Agulhas, the Spring-Summer 2026 collection unfolded as a tribute to South African summer and the layered soundscape that shapes it. Opening to the energy of Boom Shaka, Agulhas refined her streetwear foundation into something more structured, where tailoring, denim and sculptural construction came together in a more considered way.
Across the collection, “workwear made street” guided the approach. Casual staples were reworked into sharper silhouettes, with sweatpants giving way to pleated, baggy trousers that still held their shape and oversized forms balanced by architectural panelling and undone cuffs. The opening khaki blazer, detailed with aged trim and tied at the waist, set up a tension between utility and styling, followed by a cream tailored set partially concealed by a removable padded vest.
As the show progressed, modular details came to the fore through oversized pockets, toggle-string hoods and softly structured shorts, all pointing to garments designed to shift with the wearer. By the finale, that idea landed in a light teal tracksuit reimagined into a more sculptural form, with rounded panels extending from the shoulders, blurring the line between sportswear and avant-garde.
What was the central idea or emotion behind this collection, and where did that spark come from?
The collection is rooted in the emotional landscape of South African music and the way sound becomes memory, identity, and atmosphere. Growing up in Cape Town, music was never just background; it moved through homes, streets, and shared spaces. That energy became the starting point.
I was drawn to how different eras of South African music, from the soul of Brenda Fassie and TV shows such as Jam Alley to the global resonance of Tyla and the sounds of amapiano and qgom, have gone international.
It carries nostalgia and progression. The collection translates that feeling into form: a tension between past and present, structure and fluidity, refinement and rawness.
How does this collection reflect where you are personally and creatively now?
This collection feels like a moment of clarity and grounding. Personally, I’m more certain of my voice: less concerned with fitting into categories and more focused on building a language that feels honest to where I come from.
Creatively it reflects a deeper commitment to storytelling through construction and detail. There’s a confidence in restraint, but also a willingness to push silhouette and proportion. It’s about refining the Sinchui identity while allowing it to evolve — holding on to heritage while stepping into a more global conversation.
Were there any elements that pushed you out of your comfort zone?
Yes, particularly in the way tailoring was approached. I moved into more sculptural silhouettes, where garments hold shape in a more deliberate way. I worked with fabric such as leather and denim for this collection.
There was also a stronger exploration of contrast, pairing structured outerwear with softer, more fluid underlayers. Technically it required a different level of precision in construction and fabrication, especially in balancing weight, movement and form. It pushed me to think less in terms of individual garments and more in terms of how each look holds presence on the body.
What has been the biggest challenge in getting this collection to the runway?
Time and execution at scale. Translating an idea into a full runway offering always comes with pressure, which I really enjoyed with this collection. I worked on the collection with my tailors and really wanted a seamless approach, allowing us to work together and enjoy the [fact that] we have come this far in showcasing at SAFW for the third time.
Another challenge is maintaining the integrity of the vision throughout that process. It’s easy for details to get lost under pressure, so it becomes about staying anchored in the original intention while still being adaptable. That balance is always the real test.
Is modular design a conscious design principle for you?
It’s not always overt, but it is a conscious consideration. I’m interested in garments that extend beyond a single moment — pieces that can shift depending on how they’re worn or styled.
That idea ties into modern living, where clothing needs to move between different environments and expressions. So while the collection is presented in a specific narrative on the runway, there’s an underlying intention for versatility and longevity within the pieces.
Are there any adjustable or adaptive design elements in this collection, and what prompted you to include them?
Yes, elements such as drawstrings, adjustable ruching and cinching details appear throughout the collection. These allow the wearer to shape the garment in relation to their body, rather than the garment dictating a fixed form.
The intention was to introduce a sense of control and fluidity — almost like tuning a piece, similar to how music is adjusted and layered. It also speaks to inclusivity in a subtle way, allowing for variation in fit and expression while maintaining a strong design language.
Undefined
As part of the Scouting Menswear lineup, emerging designer Kingsley Baloyi presented the Spring-Summer 2026 collection for Undefined Outdoor Clothing, continuing his focus on modular, function-led design rooted in outdoor wear. The collection was grounded in utility but shaped through thoughtful construction and adaptability, with utilitarian textiles and adjustable elements used to create garments that could shift and transform with wear.
A faux leather two-piece made up of a sharply cut blazer and matching trousers was elevated through padded panel inserts and silver press-snap detailing, while a light grey tracksuit introduced a more controlled, almost concealed silhouette with a cape-like overlay and integrated hood that revealed only the eyes and wrists. Finished in a restrained palette of greys, blacks and creams, familiar outerwear styles were reworked with exposed zippers, oversized utility pockets, toggles and padded sections.
What was the central idea or emotion behind this collection, and where did that spark come from?
The central idea behind Ascent SS26 was elevation, not only in silhouette but also in identity. For this collection, I really wanted to show my diversity as a designer and the evolution of my aesthetic. Undefined has always been rooted in the outdoors, utility, and techwear influences, but this season I wanted to mature that language into something more refined and elevated. The spark came from wanting to challenge the perception of what outdoor-inspired clothing can be: functional, yes, but also formal, expressive and aesthetically uplifting.
How does this collection reflect where you are personally and creatively now?
This collection reflects a moment of growth and expansion for me. Personally, I’m in a space where I’m pushing myself beyond what feels familiar, and creatively that translates into exploring new territories within the brand’s DNA. I wanted to take the core elements that define Undefined — utility, function, and outdoor references — and spread them across different aspects of style, from more tailored and formal pieces to softer, fluid silhouettes. It reflects a designer who is evolving and allowing his language to mature.
Were there any elements in this collection that pushed you out of your comfort zone?
Definitely. One of the biggest challenges was translating traditionally functional design elements into more formal and fashion-forward silhouettes. Working with elevated tailoring, wider proportions, layered outerwear, and more structured shapes pushed me creatively. I was also intentional about distributing the brand’s elements across different styles, rather than confining them to one aesthetic lane, which challenged me to think more broadly about proportion, styling and construction
What has been the biggest challenge in getting this collection to the runway?
The biggest challenge was balancing my responsibilities as an educator with the demands of building a runway collection. Daily I teach and train students, so it takes extra effort to remain focused on my own brand. But I think the hunger and the vision are what keep driving me. I’ve had to place myself in uncomfortable situations creatively and physically to bring the work to life, and in many ways that process mirrors the title, Ascent — the act of continuously rising.
Is modular design a conscious design principle for you?
Absolutely. Functionality and versatility are important design principles for me. I’m interested in garments that can transition across different settings and expressions. Because this collection was about broadening the aesthetic language of the brand, it was important that the pieces could move between utility wear, formal dressing and everyday styling while still maintaining the Undefined identity.
Are there any adjustable or adaptive design elements in this collection, and what prompted you to include them?
Yes, those elements are very intentional in the collection. Drawstrings, ties, and adjustable details were included not only for function but also to reinforce the idea of transformation. Since the collection explores elevation and diversity in style, I wanted the garments to allow movement and adaptability. These details create flexibility in fit and silhouette while staying true to the utility and outdoor-inspired roots of the brand.
- Adapted from an article first published in Sunday Times Lifestyle.
