Tuxedo dressing continues to dominate the runways, but this season’s message is clear: black and white does not mean boring. Designers are reimagining the classic uniform with playful proportions, unexpected layers, and a touch of attitude.
At Moschino, creative director Adrian Appiolaza revisited his own past as an insurance salesman. His Spring 2025 menswear collection replaced conformity with creativity, transforming formalwear into a statement of freedom. Oversized bowties, exaggerated shapes, and clever layering added humour and depth to the monochrome palette.
Over at Setchu, Satoshi Kuwata explored the intersection of East and West through precise tailoring and origami-inspired construction, with layered fabrics, sculptural tucks, and fringed capes.
From the December issue of Wanted, 2025.
