Historically we’ve had people incorporating outdoor apparel into everyday wear. Hoodies, beanies, puffer jackets and Timberland boots have been a mainstay of the hip-hop aesthetic, for example, but the trend’s current resurgence was definitely buoyed by Covid-19, the aftermath of which precipitated a marked shift in how consumers spent their time and money. As more people sought adventure, pastimes such as hiking and new activities that required being immersed in nature became more fashionable. The wanderlust, spawned by months of sheltering in place and the related fatigue, saw increased spending on outdoor gear beyond clothing.
According to a Forbes US report: “The market size of the sporting goods retail industry — which includes sporting equipment, firearms and hunting equipment, athletic apparel and athletic footwear — measured by revenue is $67.8bn in 2023, per recent figures from IBISWorld. The industry has grown 6.7% per year on average in the US between 2018 and 2023, with a marked jump from 2020 to 2021. In fact, the sporting goods industry in the US has increased faster than the economy overall.”
The utilitarian nature of gorpcore fashion makes it easy to adapt its essence into everyday streetwear. It has found a way into the workplace in the form of gilets, puffer jackets and fleeces, paired with formal shirts, trousers and shoes. But we’ve also seen how trail running sneakers have become trendy, and can be styled with just about anything for a comfortable, casual look. While the muted tones that define outdoor fashion — black, grey, khaki, navy blue — are popular, bright neons and other vibrant hues are now commonplace in this aesthetic realm.
What many miss when they declare trends “dead” is that unlike trends we briefly get into due to popular culture and celebrities, there are others that are firmly rooted in the consumer mindset rather than fleeting, seasonal obsessions. Gorpcore is one of them, which says to me that it is beyond just a trend; it’s the status quo in fashion, and will be for some time to come.
Gorpcore is not a trend, it’s the status quo
Like ‘quiet luxury’, the outdoors trend’s obituary is being written way too early
Image: cxg.com
As a fashion writer, I’m often amused when I come across articles from credible outlets writing off popular trends as “dead” or on their way out. Not much evidence is provided beyond the writer’s apparent disdain for the said trend’s popularity.
But trends don’t die just because TikTok has stopped talking about them, or some fashion observer says it’s so. Usually, when they do say these things it’s at a time when these trends are only just reaching mass appeal, showing no sign of going anywhere, any time soon. This is why I find myself shaking my head once again at headlines like “RIP Gorpcore”.
Gorpcore is the flashy name given to the fashion trend of outerwear designed for outdoor recreation — think puffer gilets, cargo pants and hiking boots worn as streetwear. It also extends to accessories such as fanny packs, crossbody bags, minimal jewellery and sporty eyewear.
What’s behind basics fashion boom
Because we think of trends as celebrity or runway-inspired blips on the fashion radar, rather than as being informed by the evolving needs, desires and preferences of the average consumer, we tend to pronounce things “dead” or “irrelevant” when they are no longer part of the social media discourse based on whether or not celebrities are being spotted wearing them.
For gorpcore particularly, most outlets would have us believe that the trend is finally over, five years after singer Frank Ocean became its poster boy. It was 2019 and the elusive crooner had gone to Paris Fashion Week wearing an Arc’teryx beanie, Mammut puffer and some hiking boots, with straight-leg jeans and a big leather bag. The idea that the trend has since then been fizzling is gaining steam, with GQ Magazine as the latest, among others to declare it a thing of the past. This claim, however, does not hold water. The growth of the Arc’teryx brand is a case in point.
While owners Amer Sports don’t share brand performance numbers, Forbes reports that “CEO Stuart Haselden revealed it reached $1.5bn in sales last year”. The brand is seen as a breakout star, overperforming across regions, channels and categories. Originally named Rock Solid, it was founded in the late 80s, as a climbing gear specialist, eventually growing into more categories over the years where it is positioned to challenge the likes of North Face for market share.
While I don’t have the numbers, just looking at the ever-growing market presence of a retailer such as the local Cape Union Mart — and its KWay brand — tells me that the gorpcore category is probably showing similar signs of growth in SA and the rest of the Sadc region, where the company has been growing its footprint over the last few years, with stores now numbering more than 300 (this includes its other subsidiaries). If online reports are right, this number stood at below 100 just 10 years ago.
Image: cxg.com
Historically we’ve had people incorporating outdoor apparel into everyday wear. Hoodies, beanies, puffer jackets and Timberland boots have been a mainstay of the hip-hop aesthetic, for example, but the trend’s current resurgence was definitely buoyed by Covid-19, the aftermath of which precipitated a marked shift in how consumers spent their time and money. As more people sought adventure, pastimes such as hiking and new activities that required being immersed in nature became more fashionable. The wanderlust, spawned by months of sheltering in place and the related fatigue, saw increased spending on outdoor gear beyond clothing.
According to a Forbes US report: “The market size of the sporting goods retail industry — which includes sporting equipment, firearms and hunting equipment, athletic apparel and athletic footwear — measured by revenue is $67.8bn in 2023, per recent figures from IBISWorld. The industry has grown 6.7% per year on average in the US between 2018 and 2023, with a marked jump from 2020 to 2021. In fact, the sporting goods industry in the US has increased faster than the economy overall.”
The utilitarian nature of gorpcore fashion makes it easy to adapt its essence into everyday streetwear. It has found a way into the workplace in the form of gilets, puffer jackets and fleeces, paired with formal shirts, trousers and shoes. But we’ve also seen how trail running sneakers have become trendy, and can be styled with just about anything for a comfortable, casual look. While the muted tones that define outdoor fashion — black, grey, khaki, navy blue — are popular, bright neons and other vibrant hues are now commonplace in this aesthetic realm.
What many miss when they declare trends “dead” is that unlike trends we briefly get into due to popular culture and celebrities, there are others that are firmly rooted in the consumer mindset rather than fleeting, seasonal obsessions. Gorpcore is one of them, which says to me that it is beyond just a trend; it’s the status quo in fashion, and will be for some time to come.
You might also like....
How sportswear giants are losing ground
Why padel is luxury’s new best friend
Why you never have anything to wear