Tees, trousers and trainers: daily clothing essentials

We live in a truly bizarre time of fashion; nothing is defined by the strict parameters of yesteryear, and style is all the better for it. Fashion writers, editors and opinionistas always loved to find a defining style for a season, a global phenomenon or decade — yet fail to ask, who are wearing these styles, who is dictating the fashion and where are these “icons” coming from?

Christian Dior may have dictated classic post-war men’s fashion, while Chanel dressed many a cocktail function, but I believe the defining elements of fashion-eras are in the fabrics, the textures and in daily-wear rather than showpieces, couture looks and once-in-a-blue moon outfits. Some choice T-shirts, sweaters, trousers, jackets, and suits are all you need to elevate your daily outfits.

Luckily, SA is rich in considered essentials, from ethically sourced materials, local designs, and exceptional styles; Johannesburg and Cape Town are quickly cementing themselves as global fashion capitals.

These are my favourite wardrobe basics:

Tees

T-shirts were developed in the Industrial Revolution when labourers would cut their jumpsuits in half in the warmer months or in sweltering conditions. Whether worn as undershirts, or as statement pieces — we all wear and have them. Neutral tees, and pure white ones, are essential for layering, all weather types and can be worn a lot, no-one will notice a slight change of hue or the same-week-usage of a cream tee.

Quick suggestions:

• Go with a 100% cotton tee; breathable, non-clingy and soft; and
• Ignore prints or branding, which decrease the longevity, style and usability of the tee.

Fields cotton box tee — R750

Box T-shirt — R450.00

Pants

Good pants are horrendous to buy, second to renewing a passport or replacing yet another lost ID. Length, crotch area, waist and more are heavily considered in finding the right pair; my attention span and eye-pants co-ordination can’t last past the first change room visit. However, a visit to Fields in Cape Town has made me a lifelong fan of their understated essentials, pants that focus on fit and function and use high-quality materials; in a variety of styles and colours, meaning that how I like my pants can be replicated through a few online purchases with only the need to try on the first pair.

Pants are special, find a store that fits your sizing and style best, and then never leave. It is easy to collect multiple brands in your closet, but once you simplify your pants purchases to a few retailers; life becomes far simpler and buying them becomes effortless. My dad owns the entire spectrum of colours in Levi 501 jeans, and he’s all the better because of it.

Quick suggestions:

• Invest a day in finding a brand of pants that fit and suit you; and then become a loyal customer; and
• A good, tailored fit is essential, or invest in a good tailor to adjust your current rotation. 

Fields cotton weekend trousers — R1,950

Scotch & Soda pleated loose tapered-fit chino — R3,299.00

Jackets

One needs four jackets; a winter jacket, a workwear jacket, a sundowners jacket and a party jacket. Winter jackets are complicated, you need to ensure warmth, style and fit; hard to come by when the jacket is down-filled and boxy, or tailored and chilly.

My go-to winter jackets are a North Face 700 down puffer, a Stone Island bomber jacket or, if it’s really cold, a Napapijri anorak. Workwear jackets and sundowners’ jackets are interchangeable, a light overcoat with space for keys and a few extras, that doesn’t mind being held underarm or discarded on a chaise longue or work bench; Carhartt and Levi’s excel in this category. Finally, a party jacket, which could be anything and depends on personal choice — a statement bomber, a fur coat, a leather jacket. Choose something that makes you the centre of attention, keeps you warm and good-looking, and makes you feel confident.

The North Face Nuptse 1996 — about R4,000+

Dickies Eisenhower — R900

Patagonia retro jacket — R3,999

My university career was themed by suit pants paired with oversized hoodies or crewnecks, a combination somewhere between a faux-pas and considered comfort. A good sweatshirt can make you fall in love when it’s stolen, elevate or subdue an outfit, and is universally functional. Yeezy’s first collaboration with GAP encapsulates what makes hoodies great, a good boxy cut that doesn’t drape too low.

From 2016 onwards, hoodies and crewnecks entered high fashion, often through ironic graphics of Balenciaga and Vetements. Cut is very important, boxy fits are in, but they can drown you; necks should cover your undershirt or accentuate it — there is no in-between. Merchandising has been a staple of sweatshirts since the 1960s and the tourism explosion in Miami — so if you choose to wear cosy-cotton that is anything but blank — find a brand, or message, that represents you and your ideals. Local brands excel in understated classic jerseys and sweaters with a narrative behind them.

Patrick James Studio shadow mock neck — R1,399

SOL SOL mini logo hoodie olive — R1,000

Mami Wata small banana logo sweatshirt - R1,050

Shoes

There are so many shoes with so many functions. You need a pair of sneakers, a pair of summer shoes, a pair of runners, a pair of dress shoes, a pair of dress shoes to match your other suits, a pair of beaters, the list goes on and on.

My go-to shoe, for the seldom hike, nights out, picnic dates or formal functions with flair is my handy pair of New Balance 990v5s. Made iconic by dads in Ohio, supermodels in Milan and tech-entrepreneurs in Silicon Valley; you have got to focus on their upscale offerings rather than silhouettes like the 574 or sports shoes. New Balance excels with the 990, 991 and 992 models, while the 2002R and 550 silhouettes are more youthful and trendier.

Beaters are the shoes you can wear to a braai, a dog walk or a quick trip to the shops — however, this doesn’t mean they can be ugly or from the Tekkie Town sale of 2009. The key is to find affordable and durable all-rounders, such as Converse 70s, leather Stan Smiths, SB Dunks or Blazers; Vans are strictly for preteens, barristers and tattoo artists.

New Balance made in USA 990 — R4,498.99

Chuck 70 classic high-top — R1,200

Formal footwear is such a defined but diverse category, you can wear mules, loafers, dress shoes, clean sneakers or even something quite-out-there. With budget constraints, I like wearing Doc Martens, especially the 1461s, and it is easy to elevate your fit with their recent Raf Simmons and Rick Owens collaborations.

Gucci loafers have been a staple for decades, but to avoid looking like Bill Nighy, you could go with classic leather shoes. Recent trends have given a new life to leather oxfords and derbies such as the 1017 ALYX 9SM x Vibram derby shoes with a removable Vibram sole or the Balenciaga Rhino shoe with an engorged toe box. Spanish company Camper has revolutionised formal shoes in recent years with its contemporary interpretation of classics.

Margiela Tabi — R9,000+

Wanda Lephoto x Dakotas — R1,299

Camper Pix - R‌2,380.00