Review | Culinary Alchemy at Basalt at The Peech

I have long maintained that chef Candice Philip may well be one of the most technically proficient chefs in the country, consistently applying impeccable technique, laser focus and the utmost attention to detail when it comes to each of her dishes.

So it was no surprise to find this still ringing true when, on one somewhat seasonally befuddled Thursday evening, I visited The Peech Boutique Hotel. The chef, whose career included working alongside the likes of David Higgs and Luke Dale Roberts before taking over the fine-dining restaurant at the Saxon Hotel Villa & Spa, began her stint at the Melrose North Boutique Hotel almost two years ago.

What began as a pop-up, turned into a residency, which has been extended time and time again —  months becoming years and menu changes a plenty —  owing to popular demand. Contrary to what it may seem, it turns out Joburg does indeed have a taste for fine dining, and at Basalt it’s what Philip does so well.

The space is intimate and warm —  a fire is lit, fighting off the chill of the inclement weather — furnished in shades of black, grey and burnt orange, and textures of natural wood, stone and textured fabrics, creating an elevated yet simple space in which the chef’s food takes centre stage.

The current menu, titled Alchemy, is available as a five-course meal on weekday evenings and seven course over weekends — the difference being an extra main course and not having to choose between a dessert or cheese course.

The name of the menu — an ode to the seemingly magical process of transformation, creation and combination — sees the chef look back at the year’s menus, transforming the standouts and favourites into new dishes of their own — taking  a component here, and a technique or ingredient there, to create this most magnificent of menus.

As it’s a weekday, I’m planning on enjoying the five-course menu — my guest and I each choosing alternating dishes when the opportunity presents to get a taste of us much as we can. 

The service begins with a bread course, which sees a perfect slice of creamy duck liver parfait topped with sour cherry compote, which is to be enjoyed generously lathered upon the coffee milk stout bun. This is accompanied by the most delicate of panipuris — here filled with a baba ghanoush, Parmesan Catalan and smoked tomato jellies — a fabulous mouthful of contrasting textures and bold flavours.

The starter follows next: cured sea bass slices are served with a lemon gel, pea and wasabi purée, finely sliced blueberries and a herb oil. It’s clean, elegant and balanced — I dish that dazzles in its simplicity.

Mains take shape in pork done two ways: the square of belly braised and pressed to perfection and the most moreish pork shoulder, shredded and wrapped up in a bok choy leaf. These are accompanied by a sweet potato purée, crushed peanuts and a pork jus. Once again, this is a dish that is deceivingly simple, the few components showcased at their best through prodigious skill and well-paired flavours.

Closing off the menu are dessert and petit fours. The former offers the option of either a sweet or cheese course. I go for the cheese, though it’s not at all what you’d expect when you order a cheese course. A quenelle of Parmesan ice cream rests atop a vanilla crumb and is topped with elements of apricot and marigold. It’s a cracking dish, the deeply savoury, rich and creamy ice cream contrasting with the vanilla crumble and the sour-meets-sweet of the lemon and marigold.

Last but not least it’s time for petit fours, one of white chocolate and almond panforte, the other a pineapple and verbena jelly. A superb accompaniment to a double espresso or extra glass of wine, I end off the evening.

Basalt is Philip at her best, her quiet confidence coming to the fore as she delivers these dishes of exceptional technique, bold flavours and utmost elegance.

Basalt at The Peech is open Wednesday to Saturday for dinner.

For more information and to book visit their website.